My cycle holiday around Britain, taking in festivals and visits to friends...          go back 

August 1st 2006

i just spent 245 quid in preparation for my much talked about cycling trip. As promised i am approaching the trip as a novice, scoring between zero and very little on the following: training, knowledge of bicycle maintenance, route planning, fancy cycling equipment. I did (within the 245) purchase paddded cycling shorts - which i am told are crucial, nappy rash cream, and camping gear.

Today's mission was emptying the shopping bags and squeezing the contents into panniers and a handlebar bag. Due to my addiction to the internet, my laptop had to come, and in these crazy days of technology, various chargers and cables took up at least a 2 litres of the 45 available. When the packed bike fell over in the garden, i couldn't pick it up again. Finally, with a few random items tied on the back, and a pile of culled items on the floor i was ready to go for a test drive, minus water. It could have been worse. The handling is dodgy, but possible, and my helmet looks utterly ridiculous.

August 2nd  (Cycling Camelford to Dolton)

Today i set off. I cheated massively by getting driven the first ten miles, with the bike hanging out of the boot. I'm on holiday - if i'm offered a lift, i'm not fool enough to turn it down. I ended up going even further than planned in the car as it started raining.. i refused to get out until we had driven away from the clouds.

My first major error of the day was finding the fantastically signed cycle route, but going in the wrong direction for two miles. The moorland looked beautiful as i realised the hill was on the wrong side. 

I think it is a sign of me being properly grown up that i can show myself in public dressed like this. All thoughts of style or not looking like a complete prune are flung out of the window when you put safety first and wear a cycle helmet - combined with lycra and my mexico (quick dry) football shirt. My sunglasses are fashion, but i can't help thinking something with a yellow lense would actually look better with the rest of this get up.

The roads across Bodmin moor were stunning, sheep, a resevoir, so much space, and rocky outcrops in the distance. My first cattle grid was a bit of a disappointment. Honestly, everything is much more of a challenge when you have little thin tyres and twenty kilos hanging over your back wheel. There were two workman by the road, and the thought of sliding on the metal and crashing made me stop and walk the grid. What a chicken! I managed two properly after that, without an audience.

The other danger i face on the trip is wobbling into cars. My brilliant plan is to cycle near the middle of the road, then swerve over at the last minute to make sure i have room. But it only works when there is one car. If there are cars following each other then i swerve to the side start wobbling about near the hedge and have to hope that the other cars give me plenty of space. I've only been hooted at once - an uphill section where a bus overtook me. I did well to steer clear of the bus, but didn't realise there was a car behind and slammed on the brakes inches before my front wheel hit the wing of his car. It all took place at low speeds, the really jumpy moments are on long straight B roads when a lorry (most of whom are very good) misjudges it and the wing mirror skims past your ear.

I picked up cycle route three again after cutting a corner to avoid Bude. The route follows a railway cutting into Holsworthy where i collapsed next to the church to eat lunch.

After a long break here it got hideous. Tiny white roads that dip along dark shady lanes to the river. The only thought as you are braking heavily and winding your way down is how steep the hill the other side could possibly be. When i collapsed in the hedge half way up a hill I attracted the attention of the farmer (the only people that ever use these roads). He jumped out of the cab of his combine harvester to check that i was alive and well.

A few miles of A roads later, and after nearly eight hours in the saddle i arrived in the cute village of Dolton with a costcutter and three pubs. Hooray. My average speed for the day (excluding lunch break) was 5 mph. I don't think that's very good.

August 3rd  (Cycling Dolton to Tiverton Parkway)

Starting from Dolton, the friendly villagers pointed me on my way along tiny roads towards Chulmleigh and the B road i was following all the way to Tiverton - via some hills. The first up into Chulmleigh, and the second up into the next village of Chawleigh. Hills really are bastards. I can't even enjoy going fast on the downhill bit that much - i'm carrying so much weight i feel like the slightest wobble or bump may take me out. After Chawleigh the road flattened off and gave me a chance to take in fields of hay bails and thatched cottages. When i saw a pub at the crossroads with picnic tables i knew it was time for a break.

An hour and a pint of coke later, another cyclist pulled up. He had a trailer and a flag, and was clearly a bit gung ho because as we spoke i discovered he was cycling from Durham, to Lands End, to John O'Groats, and back to Durham again. Apparently it's cheating if you get a lift to and from your start and finish points! I left him to order his lunch. Only 11 miles to Tiverton. After about two of these Dean caught up with me to ask if we could cycle together. I warned him how slow i was, but he was very patient. The trouble with a cycling buddy is that however chilled out you want to be, you find that you can't help pushing yourself to keep up. Eventually i overheated and had to collapse in the shade in someone's driveway.  To further slow him down, when we did reach Tiverton, he helped me fix my dodgy bottom gears. Well i say help me, what actually happened is that i chatted with the nice lady who brought us out cold drinks, and Dean sweated and did everything. After that i basically forced him to go off without me. He still wanted to get another 30 miles under his belt that day. I had six left.

The canal from the west of Tiverton was a nice cycle, with an actual horse drawn barge. Just like in the old days, except the barge is full of tourists and cameras not coal.

I made it to the station with an hour to use the facilities and try and scrape the black marks off my legs.

Bikes on trains: I never knew this but you have to book your bike on, then hang it up in a special space on the back. A bit of a palava really. Especially when myself and another lady cyclist with full gear wanted to get off at the same station. We bonded briefly and discussed the joys of cycling around 30 miles a day (rather than 70!) and how many people seem to think we are crazy for going alone. Even in this day and age women are expected to do things accompanied. Tsk. Then in a great female moment we were fannying around at Cheltenham Station, hardly able to pick up our stuff, trying to get the bikes off the train before someone started blowing a whistle.

The taxi drivers were the right people to ask for directions to a campsite and within an hour i had a home and dinner inside me.

August 4th (Cycling Chetenham to Eastnor Castle, Ledbury)

I made it, I arrived at The Big Chill festival at 2pm. Today's cycling took me along well signed routes from Cheltenham, towards Gloucester, over a river, and up to Staunton village. From here i was told only five miles to go, and it took me an hour and ten minutes. Again, my average speed is rather below that of a real cyclist.

August 5th - 6th

In a field, drinking red wine and rum, listening to music and using portable toilets.

August 7th (Cycling Eastnor Castle, Ledbury to Moreton in Marsh)

Cycling to the festival may have been a great idea. But cycling away from it, after 3 days drinking is not so great. I offloaded some gear to friends cars, stopped at the first pub i saw for some big food, then got underway. Luckily my route from Ledbury to Tewkesbury to Toddington village was flat/downhill and with music reminding me of my great weekend on the iPod i was doing pretty well. The hills started as i approached Stow, but were long and gentle rather than steep and knee breaking. An average speed today of 7 mph. I'm going up in the world. And i stopped in Toddington to appreciate the church, and see a little bit of Cotswold life. It looks much richer than Devon, the houses are even bigger and have drives up to three miles long.

People are starting to think i am crazy for planning to cycle to the festival in Cambridge in two weeks. How long can i keep it up before i get on the train tickets website..